During our first night in Prague, we weren’t sure we were going to enjoy our stay. The problem was that although it looked like a historic European city, it didn’t feel like one. There was an unmistakeable holiday resort atmosphere, more Mediterranean fun in the sun than sophisticated centre of culture.
The old centre was absolutely rammed with 24-hour party people, an unbroken snake of them packing the streets from our hotel on Vaclavske nam (Wenceslas Square) all the way to Staromestské námestí (Old Town Square). It came as a culture shock after the elegant serenity of Vienna. At first, the volume of people and noise was overwhelming. But we had a mission with two objectives: get something to eat and find a bar in which to watch the finals of Euro 24. So, we plunged into the throng.
Sidestepping the crowds
Experience has taught us that even the most popular destinations are often only crammed on the main drag many visitors stick to like human limpets. Prague was no different. Where Melantrichova was a churning sea of people, the attractive porticoes of Havelska, where the old market is located just off Melantrichova, offered a tranquil sanctuary. Pizzeria Corto was quiet, good value, and hit the right spot with a brace of tasty pizzas. Finding a bar showing the football involved a descent back into packed narrow lanes where, if it wasn’t for the sultry weather, we could have been forgiven for thinking we’d ended up in Dublin; there must be around ten Irish bars in Prague’s old centre. Still, The Irish Times screened the match, had highly efficient staff who kept the drinks flowing for a lively clientele that included a mix of Spanish and English supporters, and a musician who got everyone in the bar singing along to Don’t Look Back in Anger. It was a most enjoyable night, even if it didn’t feel like we were in the capital of the Czech Republic.
Prague attractions, big and small
Prague during weekdays, and when a major football competition is over, was a calmer proposition, especially early Monday morning, even though breakfast at the Pytloun Boutique Hotel gave a different impression. The breakfast room is in the hotel’s bar, a modern, glitzy setting where dance music added a thumping soundtrack to cereals and smoothies. I liked it better than those quiet-as-the-grave breakfast affairs. The Pytloun was boutique, with a stylish rooftop bar, and bordered on favouring style over substance. Our room had an electronic toilet which took a bit of getting used to. But give me quirkiness over banal any day of the week.
As is the case with anywhere we visit, we compiled a tick list of classic and obscure attractions to see. Joining them up involved walking most of the streets of Prague’s old centre as well of those of Mala Strana (the Lesser Town, a rather unfair name) on the other side of the Vltava River.
Setting off on a meandering explore, the first thing that struck was how visually stunning Prague is. I’d go as far as to say it leapfrogged into runner-up position behind Venice in terms of jaw-dropping looks. It was unlike any other European cities we’d visited, its strikingly unusual architecture giving it the feel of a steam punk version of a European city; one where fighter-plane butterflies clung to the sides of buildings and people peddled Jeeps down the river. It oozed that distinctly Eastern European vibe, so that one moment I felt like I was in a Jason Bourne movie, the next I might have been in His Dark Materials.
The Dancing House
One of the quirks I wanted to see was the Dancing Building at Jirásek Bridge. Inspired by Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers dancing, it was a bit of a trek from the centre and turned out to be one of those ‘right, I’ve seen it, let’s move on’ sort of attractions.
John Lennon Wall
Created shortly after John Lennon’s death, the Freedom Wall on the Mala Strana side of the river began its creative life as a symbol of peace combined with defiance against attacks on freedom of speech. Now, it’s more selfie central, with the original message somewhat diluted while the image of the man who inspired it is mostly obscured. More interesting was nearby Kampa Island (a bit misleading as the island bit isn’t obvious) with its curious art, including creepy Crawling Babies.
Prague Castle Complex
The official blurb describes Prague Castle as the largest castle complex in the world. This sets certain expectations that may not be met. For a start, it doesn’t look like a castle in the conventional sense. It has the appearance of a small historic centre set around the mean and moody St Vitus Cathedral. A ticket is required for entry into the most interesting buildings. This includes the St Vitus Cathedral, St George’s Basilica, Golden Lane, and the Old Royal Palace. It’s easy to lose half a day wandering the complex. For me, the Cathedral and the small houses on Golden Lane which brought to life how ordinary people lived were the highlights. The complex gets busier as the day progresses, with the bulk of visitors arriving in groups, most bypassing the streets outside the complex where there are some nice restaurants and coffee shops.
The Alchemy Museum
We loved The Alchemy Museum, but isn’t for everyone as it really is all about alchemy. That might sound obvious, but I got the impression some people who visit expect more of a Harry Potter experience. The guided tour was a hoot, and the bar which shares the museum’s courtyard plays along with the alchemist theme by offering steaming concoctions in its drinks menu. A word of warning, the museum’s toilet claims to turn pee to gold, which is neat. I’m not sure what happens if anyone needs more than a pee though.
Charles Bridge (Karluv most)
Built in the 14th century, flanked by fortified towers, and lined with the sombre statues of thirty saints, Charles Bridge is one of Prague’s ‘must sees’ which is why it’s so busy from early morning onward. There are other bridges, but most visitors use this one to cross the river. All sorts of legends surround the bridge, from saints leaving their plinths after dark to the rubbing of various plaques and statues resulting in long-lasting relationships, good luck, the granting of wishes, and guaranteed return visits to Prague. It’s worth walking a couple of hundred metres upriver for the best views of the bridge, with St Vitus Cathedral creating a dramatic skyline above.
Staromestske námestí (Old Town Square)
Surrounding by bars, restaurants, roasting pigs, and steam punk buildings (aka Baroque and Rococo architecture), the Old Town Square is Prague’s visual centrepiece, a gloriously Gothic panorama that attracts a united nation of worshippers. The Church of Our Lady Before Tyn is star attraction, enchanting during both daylight hours and after dark, when it’s easy to believe the dark spires with their golden windows could be home to warlocks and witches. The Praszky orloj (Astronomical Clock) is also a tourist magnet; although, we found it a tad over-hyped.
The Sex Machines Museum
Confession time, we didn’t go in to this risqué museum on Melntrichova, but I have to say what I saw inside gave me a laugh every time we walked past it.
Gastronomy in Prague
Researching where to eat in Prague, I read countless articles which started by saying that Prague’s food was simple and hearty (the best description was in a Guardian article and attributed to an American expat – ‘food for digging holes’) before they went on to try to persuade how the food scene had changed, become more sophisticated. Yes, there are chefs pushing the boundaries, but the balance is still very much weighed on the hale and hearty side of the scale. Generally speaking, people don’t visit Prague for its fine food. Meaty and stodgy remains the norm. It’s personal taste, but the traditional food was generally too heavy for us, like the roast duck with knedliky (dumplings) at Svejk. The biggest disappointment was we found Prague’s trad food bland.
However, a good tip we read was to head to the streets around Dlouha for more contemporary and interesting restaurants like Zdensky’s Oyster Bar and Blue Fjord Seafood Market. Craving a culinary slap across the tastebuds, we tried Agave, a stylish Mexican. The food looked great, but once again it lacked punchy flavours. The most flavoursome meal we ate in four days in Prague was at Habibi, an Arabic restaurant (no alcohol) inside a shopping centre.
Sweet things
Hard to miss when exploring Prague are the trdelnik shops, usually fronted by blackened and ancient looking contraptions spinning these ‘traditional’ chimney cakes. The sweet aromas emanating from them came to characterise the streets of the main tourist drag for us. The punctuation marks are there because, according to this Czech website, trdelnik aren’t traditional at all. The site’s explanation of the name is also interesting. Still, they were such a part of Prague, we felt obliged to at least try these doughy cones filled with fruit and ice cream. Verdict? We both felt they were too sickly sweet.
On the positive side, the beer in Prague was consistently excellent. There are so many good places to imbibe Pilsner Urquell, Budweiser, or/and Staropramen that it’s hard to go wrong. Eavesdropping in the Pivovar Brewery, I was intrigued why an American mother and daughter chose a shrine to meat and beer to order sparkling water and a vegetarian salad. Great coffee shops are also plentiful.
The mystery of Prague’s beggars
One aspect of Prague that unsettled was its beggars. There are beggars everywhere, but Prague’s are more conspicuous than most because of the manner in which they beg. It’s Biblical. They kneel on the ground, doubled over, with heads facing the ground and arms outstretched in front, their upturned hands making a cup. Every one of them does this. Czech sites say it’s a public display of shame. Beggars make themselves lower than others because they feel lower. It’s an explanation that leaves a sour taste. And it’s one I’m not buying. They’re not the Borg, there’s no collective thought process that makes every single beggar behave the same way. The only plausible explanation I can think of for a disparate group of people adopting exactly the same position is they’ve been instructed to do so. I’ve yet to see evidence this is the case, so it remains a mystery.
Summary
While I’m dubious Prague has achieved foodie destination status, it instantly became one of my favourite European cities for simply wandering around. It is gorgeous. Every wander throws up something to please the eyes, curiosities that delight, and intriguing corners. Plus, the beer is excellent. Prague might still have a hedonistic reputation, and some streets can be overcrowded and boisterous, especially at weekends, but it’s easy to blot out the holiday resort vibe and embrace instead the city’s wonderfully quirky steam punk persona.
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